We are glad you are here again. Enjoy reading!
Now we're talking about the pulse wave modulator. Remember when we did this on the other discussion if you read that the pulse wave modulator, what that does, we're using that as a heat control source for our still our brewing container is killed or any other kind of device that you're using, where you're going to use heat and light so what I've got, what happens is, and I've described this before that sine wave, they're going 60 cycles a second, 120 volts hundred. The duty cycle is between two timeframes. And if we can control the period of time or that duty cycle, we can reduce that to, 25% of that duty cycle.
Even though all of that power is available, the average power that's seen by the circuit or the load is going to be equal to that. So your amperage reduces and your voltage reduces proportionately. Then if you increase it to 50%, your amperage increases and your voltage increases all the way up to 100%. If you use the full sine wave, and that's basically the theory of how this thing works. And so I've got the box. And again, it's a four by four by six by eight or four by five, they run me quite 18 bucks 20 bucks.
This is the 4000-watt pulse wave modulators got a fan on here, and you'll see on this that you've got AC voltage in these two and then your AC voltage out those two so I go black, white, black, white, it really doesn't matter but I always use that, that's my convention black, white, black, white. And that's how that operates. Now included in that I've also added the digital meter. It can run anywhere from 28 to 35 to 40 bucks. It all depends in what type you get, because I've got one here for 240 volts and it's a 10,000-watt pulse wave modulators and the benefit of a pulse wave modulator is you'll notice that the heat sink is not that prominent, it doesn't require a large heat sink.
So the amount of heat produced by that control is a lot less. And it fits in a box really easy. And you put a fan on it, it really makes it nice and cool. I've got this digital amp meter and voltmeter, it measures both at the same time, and these run me anywhere from eight to 12. To 15 bucks, it all depends, it doesn't matter what size you get, as long as there's going to handle the amps and the voltage that you're gonna be putting through it because they do come in different sizes. Just make sure you get the one that goes like from zero to 240 volts. And at least from zero to 30 amps. It just gives you that that range, you're gonna be operating in that range anyway. And then a small donut that comes with it the donut.
If you're familiar with the AMP clamp, and we've used this before, if you clamp this around one of the lead wires, it'll read right here it'll read what the amperage is going through that wire because as electricity flows through the wire with the amperage, depending on the forces going through there, it creates a magnetic field. And the intensity of that field is directly proportionate to the amperage and then there's a calculation that you can find it with the voltages.
So that's what an AMP clamp does. You can only clamp around one wire though, but if you clamp it around multiple wires, you get nothing. And so what this does, is this acts just like an AMP clamp, but it goes inside the box in the wire, your load wire goes right through just one single wire just and just lays right in or it's just a doughnut that just sits on top of the wire and then these two small connectors go on the back of your meter and it tells you exactly where to hook them up. I've got the pulse way modulators and I just mounted at the bottom of the box right down there. And I've got AC power going in and then the AC power going out. So I got black and white, black and white, and there's my ground connected together.
So there's the ground for the cable. Now on this ground, this ground goes to this grounding lug on the receptacle. And then I've got one black wire that comes off of here, and it goes through my doughnut and it goes to the brass side of my receptacle. And then my neutral wire comes off of here and it goes to the silver side of the neutral wire of my receptacle. Now what I've done here, I removed the knob and I just opened it up and I removed the potentiometer and mounted that in the cover and left the connection to the pulse way modulator. So, pw m, that's going to be our term.
The digital amp meter and voltage meter. And it does the same thing because this has two functions, but it does these two for those two functions at the same time it'll measure voltage and amperage. The two green from your donut, which is measuring the amperage just goes on to these two lugs and then your 120 volts. And I've got that running from the receptacle to one and two.
The two here and it doesn't matter which one goes on as long as you've got a hot and a neutral and that'll tell you all the time frontside, how many amps are running through this receptacle then it would tell you how many volts are provided to the PW m, the pulse wave modulating, not necessarily what's going through the receptacle. And you really don't need to know what's going through the receptacle because you're already measuring the amperage. And that's really what we're concerned with, we're concerned with controlling that power at power in the amperage.
Since the amperage and the voltage are proportionate, I can get rid of one or the other. So that's what I would do is I would just take this wire in this wire, extend them this white and this black, it doesn't matter which one of those two that you hook them to. And that's how a pulse wave modulator works. And it's the simplicity of design. And it works 100% of the time. For all of you, hobbyists out there, there's another method now to control the heater element and you're still you're killing or your brewing process, or whatever another process you have because it's exactly the same only different about running your stove in the house if you got an electric range.