# PULSE WAVE MODULATION AS A HEAT CONTROLLER

Posted by Moonshiner Chuck on

Most of you familiar with that at least can run any word from 300 to 400 bucks. We discuss how to put these together for probably about 6070 bucks yourself. It controls your heating element and feedback mechanisms a thermocouple. So it's just like the cruise control in your car, you set it and your engine knows what the transmission it knows kind of how fast to go, and it levels out and stays. Now that's what a pod controller does. Theoretically, it's a little bit better than that. If you remove the feedback mechanism, which is the thermocouple because the thermocouple goes in the top of the column and it constantly tests the temperature it takes the temperature and then it does a correction factor and error rate and it applies a certain percentage of power to your element two, of course, get it there or keep it there or whatever the case may be but if you remove it well, then you really have a dumb terminal because a Ph.D. requires the feedback mechanism just like your cruise control.

Can we use pulse wave modulation in pulse wave modulation, you know that in 120 volts AC or 240 volts AC, you've got the sine wave, and it's 60 cycles a second, but if you can interrupt that digitally, and the duty cycle between two timeframes, if you can interrupt that signal digitally, from on to off, and in that duty cycle 25% 26% 27% 28% on you know the rest off. Then what we find is is that the apparent power or the average power and amperage is reduced or increased proportionately based on that duty cycle. First of all, we had folks that wrote in and said, what about this sounds like I'm looking into that. So it's been about three months. I built one and it is a real base simple model, and I'm gonna discuss you exactly how to build it what you need in order you to understand. The principle now on your stove, if you have an electric stove, and you turn the dial on, I know there's a lot of amperages and it's actually 240 volts. So why does the ring only get so hot based on how far up I turn it but I'm not producing any heat at the switching mechanism or at the control knob. But I'm controlling the heat, the amperage, and the voltage in the element.

A lot of your ranges have them and this one just happens to be a basic utility model. But it's got two hot wires, a load one load two that goes in and it's got a heater one and a heater two that go out to the heater element. You turn the wood it starts to do it adjust that poles. What it does is it takes that sine wave in by on-off not directly, but it can be considered a pulse wave modulator. What it does is has a buy metal connector and what it does is when the power comes on and the knobs turned on, it applies the power through the contacts, and it makes hot. After a few seconds depending on where the knob is adjusted by the metal connector, heats up and deforms and causes the circuit to open. Once in a few more seconds after that this is all based on science and the way they design the air for a period of time, that by metal starts to cool off, it makes that connection again and boom, you again have power.

You can also turn it all the way up. Where that by metal as it starts to deform will not deform enough to turn off. So you have it on high which is 100% power and that's where your ring starts to turn. I figured if I'm able to control the stove when you turn the stove on to low. In most cases, the power runs through for about eight seconds, five seconds, and then it shuts off. The switch will shut off and so your ring is warm, and about 12 to 18, maybe 20 seconds later it comes back on because that by metal cools down and goes back to its rigid frame. Therefore, it goes back to its rigid frame and then it makes a connection. After about six or seven seconds, it deforms again breaks the connection, so you get more power. What you've got is, are you've got power on, power off, power on, power off. Some will argue that power on power off is just an on-off switch.

Well, it is but when it happens in that cycle, the average power in the average amp of amperage is adjusted accordingly. So your circuit sees 100% of it, but it reacts only to the percentage in the duty cycle that it's on. I hope I haven't lost anybody. But we're going to put this to the test and I'm going to discuss what you need first. First got to do one about how it actually operates and we're going to test it. You'll need a receptacle to plug into a box. And I got one about 19 bucks like a four by six by eight.

The pulse wave modulator, it’s a 4000-watt capacity pulse wave modular. It has only just got a small potential meter, which takes a digital or takes an analog signal and electronically changes that and digitally controls the track or the transistors that only allow a certain amount of percentage that power in the cycle to propagate through the wires. I've got on-off again and I can adjust every time I adjust, my volts will increase and my amperage will increase proportionately, when I turn it down, they will both go down proportionately. The other thing that I got is run about seven, eight bucks or so, and a digital multimeter. It looks like a small round magnet with two leads. They're really easy to wire because it's got, two for a hot neutral. Who are familiar with an amp meter, if you put an amp meter and that's what that clip is.

It's a clamp amp meter and it's really running, you clamp it around the load wire, only one wire. If you clamp around two wires, you get nothing. But what happens is as energy and electricity flow through that wire, it's going to make there'll be a magnetic field that is developed. With this amp, the clamp does is it measures that field based on how fast that electricity is going through and it gives you a reading in amperage and that's on your amp clamp.

Mathematically inside your amp meter, it takes place just rests over the top of the wire. Then the two wires are connected to your amp meter. It'll measure the amperage in the wire when it's operating. Another interesting is it'll also tell you what the voltage is running through because the voltage is directly proportionate with the amperage and it will show you that ability to look on your screen and tell what the bolts are and what the amperage is.

Now, depending on how you're wired because you can wire it directly where it shows you what the voltage is coming in. Or you can wire it to see what the voltage is going out. But in any case, it will always tell you what the amperage is going through the system.