PARROT HEAD ASSEMBLY PART ONE (IT SPEAKS) NEUTRAL SPIRIT

We have the audible talking proven trail hydrometer. We're going to discuss the physical assembly, Let us know what's on your mind and throw us a few ideas if you should desire. If we take the parrot head, and we kind of break it down to what its major components, we really end up with four major components. One of them being the parrot itself, which is something that you can already have. The second part is the parrot head, which is the physical apparatus that goes on top of it which houses your tunnel Flight Center. The third thing is the electronic components that you connect and lastly would be the programming. 

Let's take this step by step. The first thing we're going to do on is we're going to assemble the paired head, which is not it is precise, but it's probably the easiest thing to do. Aside from wiring it, go three parts of it already really the most difficult part is the programming. The first thing we need is the components. We have the cap and I've got one so the cap that actually fits. It's a one and a half-inch cap that goes on top of our one and a half-inch inside diameter PVC pipe that has already been cut to 145 centimeters in length. I have a small pipe it really comes in handy. The parrot which boasts an outside diameter of one and a half inches, there's a little bit of playroom in it. 

What happens is even though it's the same size, it does wobble just slightly. You're under the sink, drain plumbing, which is also a small plastic pipe, not as thick as PVC, but as used for just dreams. It is also a one and a half-inch book. It’s tight enough that it fits around the top without

It gives you that snug fit. We put it inside and we have a snug fit. The problem is that it’s made just a little bit thicker on the bottom for reinforcement. So what we need to do, we just need to hone it out a little bit. Now I've honed out its side slightly. All I got to do is hone in a little bit further. We will cut all the excess and not necessary.

So I've got my drill and I've got around sandpaper disc on the end. The barrel shape. You can get it anywhere. If you insert it you just give it a run. I have tip for you, once you use the sandpaper and it gets all gritty everything that it's sanding off it starts to build upon. I got a big eraser from harbor freight and I use it on my circular sanders on my belt sander. All the Sanders that I have just turns it on and just lay it. What it does is cleans it. 

We just clean off all that stuff and we make it new again. So in the event that we have to go back in and get a little bit more, there fits all the way into the next part. We're just gonna get rid of it. There are several methods for doing it and I understand you may have your own method. If it works for you, please use it if this is the way I have found that works for me. I was going to use a hacksaw. We didn't need that part. If you see the threatened portions a little bit larger, we cut that off as well. What we have is left the shim, cut that part off, and then cut the other part off. I'm stuck with what I got, but I do have a solution. Let's move over to the Dremel sets. I'll just chop it off at the bottom.

Now that we've completed, all we need to do is take a razor and clean it up a little bit because we got some rough edges and then insert it into the tube. The purpose of doing and taking the threads off is to make sure that they are exactly the same height.

Now the other thing that I need to do is the cap is going to go on the top, and I've got wires that are going to run up the right side or the left side wherever you put them. But in any event, they're gonna have to have a way to get in without any restriction for reasons. I'll cut it. I want my wires to run down the side, I don't want to run in front. I cut the slot and then that way when I put the cap on, the wires run out without being interfered with. 

The next piece that we need to concern ourselves with is the cap. The cap has bowled on the very inside time to switch tools. I'm not going to use a face shield for it because I need to be able to see a little bit better. Turn it on and grinding tool at the end of this Dremel tool. You can get a whole set of it. You can see how did that one pass all the way straight down through the center. I just grind all the way to the cap and I'll go back and run the other sides down after a couple of runs. It's not perfect, but it's flat.

Now our next is to attach the time of flight sensor. The flat side is the side that goes against the cap. What I want to do is adjustable, so you can do it the way you want to. Chances are you probably be okay if you just glued it but I put mine on A couple of like three screws with a spring. I can turn the screws, I can change the attitude of the time of flight sensor if I'm trying to fine-tune it. We've got the time of flight sensor, the cap, I've got 340 by 40 screws or bolts at the point. I've got three bolts that go on the end and its self-locking bolts. 

It has small plastic piece on the inside that causes them to self lock a small spring In the appropriate drill bit, and a four by 40 tap. What will happen now is first thing I've got another appropriate drill bit because what I need to do is I need to drill a hole on or in my time of flight sensor. I'm gonna drill the hole. So it's opposing, I'll have a triangle of three screws on the backside, I'll have three springs on the back of those, all springs with the lock nuts on the end, if I tighten it, it'll screw down in the lid and depress if I loosen it, it'll come up so ended that they don't have to be that long. 

Those of you who are electrical geniuses, the first thing you're going to notice, you'll just drilled through it. So it may be a connection. When I put my 440 screws through and put my bolt on the other side, am I going to make contact between any of the points and shorted out? yes there's always a potential, but we're going to remove that potential by covering with a piece of black tape. We're going to insulate those from the hole. I know that it's going to be in the center. If I put it in the center on the top. It has to be in the center on the bottom. So I place it in the center on the Top and I'm going to drill the small holes with the small drill bit to fit my tap so I can add my four by 40 screws if you just hold that in place and drill your holes, now I have the three holes ready for my tap the way a tap works is it starts off with a small point it gets gradually larger, but as you turn it starts to cut the threads.

So the way to do it is to turn a starfield, some resistance, you back off, then you turn it so that it's perpendicular, straight, turn it back off, turn it as it cuts through the reason that you back off is because you want to remove any of the material that it's cutting in order to leave threads. The cap in essence, has become a threaded base for the screw to screw in or screw out. 

All the way down so that they are protruding inside. The purpose of it is to place the spring on then the time of flight center, my lock nuts on the very end of that will make one complete unit. 

Small spring and I just need to cut the size for each one. Since I've got screws that I'm capable of using in order to either tighten or loosen, it doesn't necessarily have to be exactly the same size. I'll cut the edge off and number three so we just place our springs inside. I cut a really small piece of electrical tape that will go across the solder connectors and wrap around. 

That protects them from any contact with any metal. Now place my sensor which should be oriented the same way the screws and then add my lock nuts to the end. It's a lot easier said than done. Screw our screws down until it meets the nylon portion, which is locks the screw in place. And you'll feel it when you get the result. 

One time of flight center-mounted and wired inside the cap. By hope that was instructed enough to get you started, at least to get you to build the head of our parrot head.